Aventura Mexicana – Day 4 – Uxmal and La Casa Lorenzo

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Uxmal

Uxmal is a fantastic site.

There’s not much I need to say here. Uxmal is incredible. The best site I’ve been to so far. Great carvings and fantastic architecture. It’s aHUGE site with lots to see. Get there early and stay all day. Fantastic.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltz–WaUV58

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMW2euM6inw

La Casa Lorenzo

An elegant chandelier hangs from a tree mixing elegant charm with the mexican tropics.

My friend Larry owns and operates La Casa Lorenzo in Merida, Mexico. It’s a welcomed respite in the concrete jungle—a comfortable oasis to escape the city and super conveniently located. In the Centro colonia, it’s close to everything. We walked to restaurants and shops close by and down to the main plaza (zocalo). Larry is a fantastic host and his casa is definitely your casa. He knows the area, know what to do, and knows how to make a great margarita and stiff dirty gin martini! La Casa is locally appointed and comfortable. Air conditioned rooms, large bathrooms, high ceilings, a great cantina and VERY COOLING pool made our stay one I can’t wait to repeat.

Merida is a fantastic city. Our single day, 2 night stay was definitely not enough to experience what Merida has to offer. Restaurants and shops are fantastic and the street life Friday and Saturday nights was lively and festive. I highly recommend a trip to Merida if you want to get off the beaten Yucatan path.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyVinUCfwgI

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Aventura Mexicana – Day 5 – Chitchen Itza and Akumal

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Chitchen Itza

Chitchen Itza

I don’t think there’s really much to say here. We got up, Larry went to the market to get Conchinita (banana leaf wrapped pit cooked pork), onions, salsa and picante. We had fresh corn tortillas and warm conchinita pork. It was delicious.

We packed up and headed out of the city. The Navigatress sucessfully navigated me to a fuel station and then to the Cuota for our journey to Chitchen Itza.

By the time we got there, some buses had already arrived. The main parking area was mostly empty though. We got a nice parking spot under a tree. It was about 10 or so, we waited in line to get tickets, then waited in the other line to get the other ticket and went in. We walked down vendor row to reveal Kukulkahn’s grandeur.

Having been to Uxmal the day before, Chitchen’s luster was tarnished. All these sites are different and they all offer something special, but compared to Uxmal, Chitchen just doesn’t cut it. However, the huge ball court was open and we thoroughly enjoyed imagining the Maya trying to get that hard rubber ball way up into that small hoop.

We wandered around, admiring all the engravings and skull racks. Went down to the cenote, took some pictures, bought a friolo from a little girl selling them. It was the perfect way to cool off because, you guessed it, it was hot as hell and we were dripping with sweat. We made the rounds, did some haggling and shopping. Bought a plate and a skull bowl and headed out knowing we had a long drive to Akumal ahead.

Grabbed an espresso in Valladolid to fuel up for the drive to Akumal.

We stopped in Valladolid on the way, ate a Domino’s pizza (we had seen one in town a few days before when we were there and it just sounded good), grabbed an espresso and got back on the road.

We sped down the road dodging buses, slow cars, bike riders, dogs and pedestrians. Crossing over topes and other speed slowing devices through the many small towns on the way. We ran into a torrential rain storm that pretty much blinded us. Our fabuolous rental’s wipers worked OK, but certainly were not Yucatan Thunderstorm Downpour rated (see video below). Alyssa kept me on track as we followed the green signs to Tulum. and then up to Akumal.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xan_a3F4ofA

Arrival in Akumal

Ahh, back at the beach!

After a long day driving from Merida we finally arrived at Akumal—place of the turtle. Akumal is a small beach community between Playa del Carmen and Tulum. It’s off the beaten path and gorgeous. Between shops, restaurants, cantinas, the dive shop and fantastic beaches, there’s nowhere in Mexico I’d rather be. We stayed at La Joya, a condo on Half Moon Bay. This is my 3rd time to Akumal within the year. I’ve offically been crowned an “Akumalic”—and I dont mind one bit. Interested in coming here? Check this site for all things Akumal! LocoGringo.com

So now that we are in Akumal, it’s time to slooooow down. Take a break. Hang out at the beach. Snorkel. Have a drink and rest a bit. Each day up until now has been packed with amazing activities each better than the previous. Now that we’re in Akumal, things have slowed down. Alyssa asks, “How are we going to top the last few days?”. We’ll we’re about to find out.

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Aventura Mexicana – Day 6 – Coba, Beach at Tulum and Playa del Carmen

Monday, August 6, 2012

Coba

At the top of the pyramid at Coba.

Got up at a reasonable time, had some breakfast and headed out to Coba. It’s about 45 min drive from Akumal.

Coba is a large site of multiple structures all spread out in the jungle and connected by dirt roadways. Distances between some of the ruins is upwards of 1km and more, so we rent bikes and ride between them. Some poor saps  chose to walk—a decision they obviously regretted as we saw many empty bikes being shuttled into the jungle to receive its rider.

We started off by going all the way to the back to the big pyramid, thinking everyone would get trapped at the ruins near the entrance and then the crowds would diminish as we got deeper into the jungle. Our thinking was mostly correct. So we biked through the jungle stopping and looking at the ruins and then biking on to the next set. By the time we got way back to the Stelae, we were the only ones back there. Not surprising really.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjXQb0gwnPI&feature=youtu.be

Beach near Tulum

After Coba we decided to have lunch at Mezzanine (a great boutique hotel with a Thai restaurant at the beach) and then spent some time in the beautiful water at the beach.

Playa del Carmen

Playa del Carmen

After a great snorkel on the reef right out in front of where we were staying we decided to head into Playa del Carmen to have some dinner and do some shopping. We arrived, parked and headed to town. We walked down to the ferry dock, the main plaza, beach and then up and down Quinta (the main drag with hotels, shops, bars, restaurants and just about anything else you can think of). We finally settled in on a restaurant and sat down to the pleasant sounds of a live band playing “La Cucaracha”. They changed the words to the song a little bit to make it more interesting…

La cucaracha, la cucaracha,
ya no puede caminar
porque le falta, porque no tiene
marijuana que fumar.

Seriously, this is the only way we could have ended this crazy trip.

It began to drizzle a little and our server asked if we’d like to move to a table more inside. Initially we said no, but a few seconds later changed our minds and quickly moved to an inner table. It downpoured and people scattered everywhere ducking into restaurants and shops. Nonchalantly, our server said, “Yup, Ernesto is coming.” Remember how I said we weren’t sure how were were going to top the excitement of the previous days. Well, I instantly got chills and thought, “Ernesto…OMG A HURRICANE IS COMING!”

Instantly I grabbed my phone and brought up NOAA to look at the tropical weather forecast. Sure enough, Tropical Storm Ernesto, soon to be Category 1 Hurricane Ernesto was headed right for us. So we laughed hysterically and proceeded to order a few more cervezas!

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Aventura Mexicana – Day 7 – Tulum and Hurricane Ernesto

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Tulum

Tulum is a beautiful site right on the ocean.

So we got up this morning to a sustained wind and decided to do a little hurricane preparation. We went shopping for some food and cerveza with the anticipation that we’ll lose power and the restaurants may be closed. We talked to the building manager and asked her if there is anything we should be worried about. I had already scoured the web for all the info I could, and concluded that we are not in any mortal danger, but thought I’d get a locals opinion too. She said, nothing to worry about. If there was anything to worry about, they would have already contacted us with instructions. Then she said, “Besides, it’s only a category 1.” OMG, “ONLY A CATEGORY 1″….ok, if she’s not worried, I’m not worried. But that’s still funny to hear. I guess at home in California we would say, “It was only a 5.2” but to foreigners that may seem a little alarming. So we packed up most of our stuff in case we had to move quickly during the storm. Sat around a little bit and watched the surf build a little bit. A rain squall pushed through and then we decided to go to Tulum.

It was windy and a bit cloudy skies with a little shower here and there. Other than that it was a lovely morning/afternoon at Tulum. The cloudy skies brought a welcomed shield from the sun. We walked through the shops, paid 5 pesos to use the bathroom then headed out to the ruins. Bought our tickets, went in walked around, took some photos, observed an army of ants on the move  and headed back to the shops to do some final souvie shopping. We ended up scouring EVERY SINGLE SHOP looking for a certain something that we never found (at least for the price we wanted anyway). We left empty handed and headed back to Akumal for lunch and final hurricane prep.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8rPmf1PY7w&feature=youtu.be

Hurricane Ernesto

Ernesto approaching.

On our return to Akumal, we had lunch at Turtle Bay Cafe and did a little more shopping at some of the local shops. Alyssa haggled them down to a decent price to get what she wanted. We asked the restaurants if they will be open tonight, most replied yes, until 8pm. Ok, so we’re not going to starve, besides, we did buy some food at the store just in case. Interestingly, Mexico’s president ordered the halt of liquor sales after 1PM in preparation for the hurricane. I guess he wanted his citizens to be safe, rather than drunk. Good thing we had bought cerveza earlier! We finished our shopping only to find the wind picking up and a little rain falling. The sky was turning wicked dark and we decided it was time to head back home to hunker down for what we didn’t know a the time was going to be a VERY LONG NIGHT.

As darkness crept in, the winds got stronger and stronger. An occasional squall would roll through bringing horizontal rain that hit the windows with such force that it seeped through the seems and puddled on the floor. With nothing better to do, we both sat on the sofa looking out and Facebooking. Power and internet were still working, but not for long. Predictably so, we lost power, but only for about an hour or so. I had a flashlight with fresh batteries (I always travel with a flashlight) so we had some light. Not to mention we made sure all of our electronic devices were fully charged and tablet computers give off a fair amount of light. So we sat in the dark and ate ice cream. To our delight, what we thought was vanilla turned out to be coconut. It was delicious.

Yaay we’re in a hurricane!

The storm kept building and building. The wind was howling and whistling through the doors and windows. The hurricane shutters were banging against the building  a little bit. They hand’t closed all of them so we could still see out of all our windows enough to see the trees bent over and waves crashing high on the beach below.

Getting updates from family and friends and constantly checking NOAA for hurricane news, we waited as the storm made landfall to the south of us. We were just on the edge of the hurricane vs. tropical storm force wind warnings. We thought the worst was over as the storm moved inland and would weaken. Little did we know that was just the beginning. The wind built and howled for the next few hours. We both sat there looking at each other each time the building, doors and windows would shake. It just kept getting worse.

We tried for bed around 11:30. I settled in and managed to doze off for a few hours only to be awoken by a horrible deep rumbling noise about 2:30. The storm was still raging outside and the strong winds created this deep droning rumbling sound. The bouts of rain slapped against the windows like thousands of tiny firecrackers.

Yeah, we were in that.

I was starting to get a little worried. NOAA updates their site every 3 hours. I though the storm would weaken over land and would slow down shortly after landfall. Here we are 6 hours after landfall and it is still apocalyptic outside. Seriously, is this ever going to end? 3:30, 4:30, 5:30 no end in sight. Friends waking up on the east and west coasts are telling me to hang in there. I seriously had NO IDEA this storm would be so intense FOR 16 HOURS.  Take the worst thunderstorm you’ve ever been in, multiply it by 10 with sustained blowing wind and now have it last for 16 hours. That’s what Ernesto was like for us. I was beginning to worry whether it would calm down enough for us to make it to the airport.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWn9tW5YasY&feature=youtu.be

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Aventura Mexicana – Day 8 – Getting Home

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Getting Home

“Calm” after the storm.

6:30 am, a final blast of Ernesto’s howling droning rumble and rain and it settled down a little bit. It was finally subsiding Winds still very strong, but not nearly what they’d been. The sun crept out of the clouds a little bit and the surf had calmed down. It was the morning after. The beach was strewn with debris. No surviving turtle nests in site.

We finished packing up, had a little breakfast and headed out into the cloudy, rainy, windy weather to make a run for the airport.

Bouts of wind and rain pushed us all over the road and handicapped visibility. Debris from the storm was all over. Downed trees, torn up road signs and billboards, and giant puddles adorned our trip to the airport. Traffic was light, but slow going at times in the rain. Overall, it wasn’t that bad getting to the airport. All the way up through Playa del Carmen, Puerto Morelos and Cancun the wind and rain was still very present. We returned our car, arrived at the terminal, went through security and waited for our plane. We were ready to leave Mexico (but mostly Ernesto) behind.

 

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